West Adams, CA

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With the arrival of big tech in neighboring Culver City, West Adams has gone from a small, forgotten, and overlooked community right next to the ten freeway to a destination for young food-obsessed residents and developers alike. While the neighborhood is changing for better or worse, its tacos are holding firm.

Ten years ago, the streets at night were desolate and uninviting. Today, you might need a reservation at some of the new restaurants on West Adams. You can find a brewery hosting an all-vegan pop-up market on Friday nights on Jefferson Boulevard. And all this new growth has also attracted new taco stands to the area. And while most of these newcomers are tech-driven, there's a certain irony to be appreciated in learning that some of these taqueros are still thriving without any social media presence.

Here are the top six tacos that are holding it down in this changing neighborhood.

Considering the recent influx of people and businesses to West Adams, you could argue that Taquería Los Anaya was ahead of its time. The Anaya brothers opened the restaurant over ten years ago, proving serving high-quality food doesn't have to come at a high neighborhood cost. A trio of tacos can come with juicy and seasoned chicken topped with a savory, sweet mole with a bright, lively red salsa. Carne asada is prepared from thick angus steak. And a tender beef Barbacoa can be served with its own salsa and unique garnish. Taquería Los Anaya is one of those rare gems where good tacos are only the introduction to an incredible menu.

4651 West Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016. Closest Metro line and stop: Bus Line 37 - “Adams/West (westbound)” or "Adams/Buckingham (eastbound)."

While many self-proclaimed taco-eating experts will tell you what a taco should be, Bee Taqueria is here to show you how radically different and still chingón a taco can be. It's an exhibition of the art of the taco as a canvas for flavors, colors, and imagination. This vibrant and colorful taquería serves brilliant culinary splendors on a tortilla and is also home to one of only two famous taco omakases globally. These tacos are an experience that challenges the perception of the tortilla as just a thin, flat, circular vehicle used to eat food. From a brilliant vegan beet taco to a cochinito slow braised pork, these tacos are here to make an impression on your taco preconceptions.

5754 West Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016. Closest Metro lines and stop: Bus Line 37 - “Adams/Thurman” or Bus Lines 38, 105 or 217 - "Fairfax/Adams."

Betos Tacos is a taco truck whose paint job is reminiscent of a radio flyer wagon. It parks at an old public scale used to weigh trucks and cargo, but the load they carry are great-tasting meats on good tortillas during the week. While they offer a variety of delicious proteins like asada, pastor, lengua, and chorizo on weeknights, the soft tacos estilo Guadalajara they serve on the weekends really stand out. Their tacos al vapor served with steamed tortillas and a mix of steamed meats from the cow head, offering a flavorful and textural experience. The gentle taco is a unique find hidden in the backroads of this neighborhood. They're open late at night most nights.

5230 West Jefferson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016. Closest Metro lines and stop: Bus Line 38 - “Jefferson/Alsace” or Metro E Line and Bus Line 212 - "Expo/La Brea Station."

With the growth of West Adams Boulevard, about half a dozen new taco pop-ups have also moved into the neighborhood in the last several years. But the OGs of West Adams are Tacos El Primo. It's a complete taco stand that starts with an Al pastor Trompo, a pan full of stewing meats, crisp aguas frescas, and a salsa bar as vibrant and spicy as it is tantalizing. The gentlemen from Aguascalientes who man this stand have built a rapport with this community over the last twenty-plus years. It's that rapport that makes this taco experience complete. They've had to move from their original spot due to new construction, so if you don't find them at the address below, they might be nearby. Always drive around a few blocks and they’ll be around. Their only sign is the banter between them and their neighborhood customers.

5004 West Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016. Closest Metro lines and stop: Bus Lines 37 or 212 - “Adams/La Brea.”

Weekend mornings are reserved for specialty tacos like Tony's Carnitas in this neighborhood. This carnitas may not be known across the county, but Carnitas Tony is a local legend. If you want to try some of these juicy carnitas, you'll have to get there early, they tend to sell out quickly, and that's without having a social media presence. Only the power of community and good tacos propel whispers about their golden pork through local ears.

2601 Ridgley Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90016. Closest Metro line and stop: Bus Line 37 - “Adams/Hauser.”

We will take the jerk-spiced grilled plantain tacos with habanero salsa that Alta Adams offers as an appetizer on their menu as a gesture of respect and acknowledgment to the neighborhood’s Black and Latino working-class roots. They are plant-based and hit the spot to warm your insides before the restaurant’s celebrated dishes, like chef Keith Corbin’s oxtails with rice, and shrimp and grits, arrive at your table. The grilled plantain is sweet, tender, lightly charred, and extra satisfying if you love your food to be a little sweet and spicy. 5359 W. Adams Boulevard. Los Angeles, CA. 90016. Closest Metro line and stop: Bus Line 37 - “Adams/Dunsmuir.” - Javier Cabral

Along West Adams Boulevard between South La Brea Avenue and Fairfax in the central part of Los Angeles, you'll find bustling new businesses like The Alsace Hotel, a warm, design-focused 48-key property with food and drinks by Danny Elmaleh (also behind nearby favorites Mizlala and Johnny's). Hip coffee shops like Highly Likely have cropped up, once again breathing life into one of the city's most diverse and historic neighborhoods, where personalities including Marvin Gaye and Johnnie Cochran once lived. Here's how to make a day of it.

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Slice of life

In 2015, the creators of long-standing indie hip-hop label Delicious Vinyl, which birthed artists like Tone Lōc, The Pharcyde, and Young MC, minted a pizza parlor that has become a central hub for West Adams residents and its music community. In pre-pandemic times, Delicious Pizza hosted epic block parties with DJ sets and pop-up shops. The live events have yet to come back in full swing, but the pizza is still great, especially the Hawaiian, which will silence any purist arguing that fruit doesn't belong on a pie.

Tasting notes

Jaela Salala brings her own flair to Adams Wine Shop, focusing on approachably priced bottles produced by Black and female winemakers. Sit outdoors and enjoy a flight, or buy a bottle to take next door to Alta Adams, the Southern restaurant led by chef Keith Corbin. Or, local tip: Enjoy a bottle of fizzy Lambrusco with your slice of Delicious pizza.

Sit and savor

Chef Avner Levi and his team at Cento make regionally inspired Italian pastas with a California twist. For dinner, book a table on the outdoor patio among the olive trees and lavender, or go for a counter seat at the open kitchen and watch the team plate up stunning dishes like the crimson beet spaghetti with poppy seeds, brown butter, and ricotta or the decadent chicken-liver crostini.

This article appeared in the April 2022 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.

West Adams, a neighborhood situated in South Los Angeles, has been a hub for Black artists and creators since the 1940s. And though it undoubtedly has always held historical significance, the area formerly known as Sugar Hill has recently seen a surge of development and attention by creative types who’ve filled the storefronts and restaurants with fresh energy and great design. Artists like Mara Brock Akil have chosen West Adams to center their work, and rising star chefs like Keith Corbin of Alta Adams are pushing the West Coast culinary narrative forward while holding true to its soulful roots. Here are some of our favorite businesses in the neighborhood celebrating the area’s dynamic history and promising future.

1. Alsace LA Hotel

When this 48-room boutique hotel on West Adams Boulevard opened in 2021, all hopes of this refreshed design district staying under the radar were dashed. Decked in creamy upholstery and warm terracotta accessories, it’s an oasis of calm in a vibrant community. Plans for an onsite restaurant have been delayed, but there’s plenty of food and drink (like a new outpost of Tartine, just a few blocks west) within walking distance. alsacehotella.com

2. Peace Awareness Labyrinth & Meditation Garden

Three days a week between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., visitors are allowed to walk the gardens and labyrinth at the headquarters for the Movement of Spiritual and Inner Awareness. Amble through the grounds, or sit quietly by the fountain at this unexpected retreat in the center of L.A.’s urban sprawl. $6, reservations required; peacelabyrinth.org/tours

3. Ray Charles Foundation Memorial Library

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On nearby Washington Boulevard, Ray Charles’ former recording studio and office are West Adams-adjacent, but still a part of the neighborhood’s heartbeat. Fans of the legendary recording artist can stroll past his gold records and iconic outfits. By appointment only; please note that as of March 2023 the museum is temporarily closed; theraycharlesfoundation.org/memorial-library

4. Free Bike Tour

On the first Sunday of the month at 11 a.m., adopt-a-bike founder and Realtor Jose Prats leads curious cyclists on a free tour of the neighborhood, which includes a brief history of the area. (And maybe a few new listings?) Check out @westadamsbiketour on Instagram.

5. Band of Vices Gallery

A self-described “art and culture company” committed to providing a platform to marginalized creative communities, these gallery spaces showcase a curated exhibition program. Check out the events calendar for an updated list of happenings. bandofvices.com/galleries

6. MIZLALA

This Mediterranean grill, serving delicious, modern Moroccan/Israeli food, cranks out pillow-soft pita, spit-roasted chicken, kebabs, and Jerusalem salad in three locations across L.A.—but the West Adams outpost was the first. Order a side of crispy broccoli with za’atar and capers and then think about nothing else for days. mizlala.com/westadams

7. Delicious Pizza by Delicious Vinyl

The iconic independent record label founded in the late ’80s that introduced the world to Tone Loc, Young MC, and The Pharcyde has been in business for a whopping 30 years. Back in 2015, the founders opened Delicious Pizza as a hub for community activities and events—one that also happened to deliver on the promise of its name. If you visit West Adams and love it, give proper credit to the Delicious team for helping to put it back on the map. deliciouspizza.com

8. Kneeland Co.

Shop owner and textile expert Joanna Williams is a purveyor of exquisite handmade goods she’s gathered during her global travels. None of it’s cheap, but most of what she offers is one-of-a-kind and worth the splurge. By appointment; kneelandco.com

9. The Global Trunk

A decade ago, a visit to Guatemala inspired owner Josetta Sbeglia and her niece, Cathy Benavides, to open a cheery storefront for sustainable, fair trade, responsible home goods, and textiles showcasing the handiwork of the community. In 2022, their company became a Certified B Corporation, meeting the highest standards of environmental and social impact. theglobaltrunk.com

10. Alta Adams & Adams Wine Shop

Chefs Corbin and Daniel Patterson promise an inclusive setting, comforting food, great cocktails, and a lively atmosphere at their restaurant, Alta Adams, and they deliver on all fronts. Their interpretation of soul food, a collision of West African flavors and California cuisine, is as satisfying as it gets. Next door, the Adams Wine Shop focuses on bottles produced by women and BIPOC creators from around the world. altaadams.com

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Photo by Stella Kalinina for Bloomberg Businessweek.

Driving down West Adams Boulevard just past Culver City, you can see the typical signs of a neighborhood in transition. There are old liquor stores, empty lots, and burn scars from the 1992 LA Riots. But look closer, and you’ll find a new boutique hotel, a pasta bar, and even some sleek apartment buildings under construction.

Each newly developed property is owned by the CIM Group. The real estate company is working on at least 40 properties in the neighborhood as it looks to single-handedly redevelop West Adams into a trendy destination. But some long-term residents of the historically Black and Latino neighborhood feel like they don’t fit into CIM’s vision.

The man behind the CIM Group is Shaul Kuba and the company is worth some $30 billion. His vision is to not only build new developments, but design how neighborhoods should feel and look. All that’s according to Bloomberg Businessweek investigative reporter Peter Waldman.

“He fancies himself as a curator as much as a developer. He chooses and remodels and refurbishes and designs in ways that are very creative and that tend to attract a lot of young, creative types with expendable income, who can pay [thousands] per month for apartments in edgy places, like West Adams,” he tells KCRW.

Waldman explains that more than half of the new developments are built using adaptive reuse architecture techniques — where existing buildings are repurposed for new projects. But he notes that there are long-time residents who are experiencing the after-effects of the new construction.

That includes Abdul Jamal Sheriff, who owns Holiday Liquor on West Adams Boulevard. Waldman says Sheriff has been offered millions of dollars in exchange for his property, but he’s rejected the offers each time.

Now, Sheriff alleges Kuba has gotten LA City Attorney Mike Feuer’s office to harass him over allowing drug dealing and gang activity on the premises. Feuer issued a nuisance abatement injunction that requires Sheriff to set up video equipment, hire security guards, and prohibit the sale of single-serve alcoholic beverages. Kuba denies the allegations.

“Just like Shaul Kuba, he isn't giving up. He's appealing the judicial injunction against Holiday Liquor, and he's also pursuing his own plans to develop a mixed-use, very CIM-style apartment retail complex right there on West Adams. So we'll see whether he can build a rival real estate empire to CIM Group right there in the middle of West Adams.”

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Madeleine Brand

West Adams may not be an Instagrammable L.A. hot spot by most influencers’ standards — and that’s exactly why it’s so charming. What it lacks in impermanent trendiness it makes up for with an impressive architectural and artistic pedigree as well as historical roots. Even its influx of destination restaurants has substance. Despite being one of the most rapidly changing areas in South L.A. — gentrification and affordable housing are charged issues here — West Adams and its surrounding areas maintain an authenticity that feels tangible.

An abundance of street art adds to the neighborhood’s color. The scent of brothy birria and freshly baked birote intermingle with smoky barbecue. Fliers promoting popular community events in English and Spanish get tacked to telephone poles. The allure of West Adams lies just below the surface. There, you’ll find provocative art, culture, soul food and even the promise of spiritual enlightenment.

One tip before you go: West Adams’ spread-out streets aren’t exactly famous for their walkability. The quickest way to get around is inevitably by car. A bike works too, as long as you don’t mind the lack of dedicated bike lanes. But, if you welcome a challenge, exploring by foot is doable and arguably more interesting. Let’s go:

Noon: Hidden on the very west end of West Adams Boulevard lies the proverbial hidden gem: Just Tantau, 5740 W. Adams Blvd., a jewelry and art shop with pieces ranging among the elegant, kitschy and eco-conscious. Owner Carol Tantau and her charcoal-colored cat Ricky are Venice transplants who’ve found a kinship with the area. On Sundays, the shop hosts a walk-in jewelry repair workshop for $15 that handles everything except silver soldering.

12:15 p.m. Go east until you hit Alta Adams at 5359 W. Adams Blvd., a buzzworthy soul food restaurant frequented by locals and celebrities alike. From Alta’s newish brunch menu, order the collard green and shaved veg salad ($13) and cornmeal pancakes ($14) by chef Keith Corbin. Equally enjoyable? The restaurant’s weekend playlist by Alta manager Justin Berry, which includes MF Doom, Slum Village and OutKast.

Step into the adjoining Adams Coffee Shop and ask for an oat milk latte to go, made strong with Coffee Manufactory espresso.

1:30 p.m. Continue to make your way to Runway Boutique at 4755 W. Adams Blvd., where community-conscious owner Fatima Dodson has curated an impressive collection of vintage, contemporary and handmade pieces to browse. Dodson is new to the area but quickly found her place as a regular participant in community events like the West Adams Family Function and host of Second Saturdays on Adams.

2 p.m. Harness the last of your caffeine buzz as you continue trekking east along boulevard. Let the youthful skateboarders kick-flipping in front of Lotties skate shop energize you. As one of the few shops of its kind in the area, it’s become a hub and hangout for the local skate scene and appreciators alike. Once you hit 6th Avenue, turn left and lose yourself in the endless row of Craftsman houses, among other styles, until you hit Washington Boulevard.

2:30 p.m. On Washington, camouflaged amid the warehouses and depots of Arlington Heights, lies the Underground Museum at 3508 W. Washington Blvd. — an alternative exhibition space with a focus on black art. Its bookstore alone is worth the detour: Monitors stream artist Khalil Joseph’s arty cultural broadcast “BLKNWS,” which reimagines mainstream journalism from a black perspective. The shelves are stacked with unique tomes and treasures.

Once you walk into the actual exhibition space, you’re transported into another dimension. During my recent visit, the starkly minimal atmosphere set the tone for artist Roy DeCarava’s haunting photographs in “The Work of Art” — which was on display until June 30.

Before you leave, step into the museum’s serene outdoor space, dubbed the Purple Garden, where you can pay your respects to a Nipsey Hussle shrine adorned with crystals, candles and lavender sprigs; and admire sculptor Lianne Barnes’ mind-bending work, “Sanctum.” Browse countless photos of Purple Garden events on the museum’s social handles — from indie film screenings to inclusive yoga classes — and you’ll realize that it is, in fact, Instagrammable.

3:15 p.m. Take a swift walk back down 6th Avenue and turn left on the boulevard, where you’ll find yourself in the heart of Historic West Adams. Look for the behemoth Beaux Arts-style mansion that’s home to the Peace Awareness Labyrinth and Gardens at 3500 W. Adams Blvd. Now owned by the Movement of Spiritual Inner Awareness, the architectural stunner still feels like a well-kept secret.

After giving you a free tour of the grounds (book in advance through peacelabyrinth.org — note the grounds are open to visitors from 12 to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and select Sundays), your dulcet-toned docent will guide you to the main attraction: the sanctified labyrinth. You’ll be instructed to walk the windy path with a prayer or mantra. Even if new-age spiritualism isn’t your thing, — keep an open mind. It’s a good opportunity, if nothing else, to reconnect with yourself. After you’ve reached peak peace, or made yourself dizzy, recalibrate in the lush meditation gardens. It might be hard to believe that, yes, you are still in fact in the middle of hustling, bustling L.A. Before you leave the oasis behind, breathe in the smell of jasmine flowers one last time.